The small municipality of Berthier-sur-Mer is appreciated by vacationers for its long sandy beach and magnificent views of Mont Sainte Anne, located on the other side of the Saint Lawrence River. The place is also a must for lovers of wine, bread and cheese.
Written yesterday at 4:00 pm.
Traveling the world, Frédéric Pare returned to the land of his ancestors, to Berthier-sur-Mer, with one desire: to produce wine.
The family land was not suitable for growing grapes. 30 minutes east of Quebec, winters are long and harsh. However, the click of the future winemaker occurred during a visit to the American vineyard La Garagista. “They make exceptional wines in the mountains of Vermont, a difficult place,” he says. I thought we could do it. »
Frédéric Pare and his wife Sarah Inkman planted the first vines in 2016 and named Domaine des Feuxfouts. The homestead is located along Highway 132, less than 1 km from the river. In this place, the sea wind constantly blows, which contributes to the practice of organic farming.
The couple is inspired by the practices handed down by La Garagista, such as permaculture, as well as the techniques of Samuel Lavoie from the Le Racou vineyard, near Saint-Germain-de-Camourasque.
Like them, the new winemaker works as naturally as possible, without any chemical additives, without filtration and with natural yeast. He also vinifies a variety of micro cuvees to bring out the best from each grape variety.
If you respect the fruit, it will give you the best it can give. This philosophy has reconciled me with hybrids. They were bullied in Quebec.
Frédéric Pare of the Domaine des Feux follettes
In concrete tanks set in an old family barn, the orange wine from the white Frontenac and Aldamina smells like lilacs and apples. The same applies to natural sparkling, whose aroma is reminiscent of small red summer fruits.
“Our shale soil is very similar to the shale soil of Ile d’Orléans,” explains the winemaker, a geologist by training. Gives expressive wines. »
Midnight Bath, L’échouage and Cosmique Clayver, the couple took inspiration from Berthier-sur-Mer’s reputation for celebrating holidays to name their cuves. Both labels and wines are festive!
Like other Quebec vineyards, bottles of Domaine des Feuxfouts sell out quickly. Moreover, only half of the four hectares are currently in production. Thus, the next open day will be held from 14 to 16 July.
At the same time, Domaine des Feux follets are available at the Marché du Roy, as well as at the restaurant l’Amiral in Berthiers-sur-Mer.
Bakery Lucky Trouble
In the shadow of the spire, in a beautiful family home, Le Joyeux Pétrin bakery opens its doors every weekend. However, to taste croissants and sourdough bread from Charles Trudeau, you need to get up early. Baking finds buyers in a few hours.
Like every day for 20 years, Charles Trudeau got up at dawn. In the outbuilding of his family home, the baker starts making pastries that will be on sale all weekend. “I’m cooking 1500 and I’m running out! »
Hailing from the northern suburbs of Montreal, the baker learned his trade in L’Anse Saint Jean, in Saguenay. He then worked for several years in Fromentier in Montreal, and in 2002 he settled in Berthier-sur-Mer.
His beautiful showcase shop is open Thursday through Sunday during the summer and Saturdays and Sundays the rest of the year. If there are many clients, then most of them come only for the holidays, Mr. Trudeau notes.
My passion is to feed the world!
Charles Trudeau of Le Joyeux Petrin
Recently, his passion has taken on another dimension: he makes his own flour from organic wheat grown 4 km from his home. The grains are ground in a small mill. The “local super flour” is then sold in their display cases and, of course, used for their creations.
Joyous Pétrin has another find on the counter: goat cheeses from Fromagerie Les Vagabondes, which opened its doors just two years ago in Montmagny. Catherine Lapointe only takes care of her herd of about forty animals, as well as the preparation of cheeses. It is not idle, but it works wonders. The goats are raised on pastures near the river, without the use of chemicals. The result: a delicious cheese of great complexity that proves to be a win-win with Charles Trudeau bread.