Monday whispers: Guy Savoy dreams of Petit Retro, do you know Rebecca Beaufour? Marcel as Denis Martin in Le Sete, Valère Diosche in Narbonne, Maury Sacco replacing Jean Imbert in Saint-Tropez, Régi Campana at the Théâtre Edouard VII, Liliane Grimaud in Le Noirier, Farewell to Jacqueline Lauren, Bernard Bach at Villemur-sur-Tarn. | Blog by Gilles Pudlowski

Guy Savoy dreams of Petit Retro

Small retro © Maurice Rougemont

Nothing has been fixed yet and officially (at least until the end of August). But everyone (at least in the whole of the chic 16th arrondissement) is talking about it: Guy Savoy is preparing to buy Le Petit Rétro, this bistro gem, all in secret mosaics and dating from 1904, with its chic and wary zinc bar. , two dining rooms (the first of which is authentic), excellent traditional cuisine and a dedicated team. He could put his lieutenant, Irvin Durand, who is currently in charge of the star-studded Chiberta Hotel on Rue Arsène Housse in the 8th arrondissement, there. Future kitchen of the place? It must remain true to the gastronomic traditions of a true Parisian bistro. As the three-star Hôtel de la Monnaie aptly says: “ in such an environment, one can only respect the spirit of the place“…

Do you know Rebecca Beaufur?

Rebecca Beaufur © GP

The head of the Michelin guide, Gwendal Poulennec, explained in Cognac last March that starred women are in short supply and that he wants to explore the subject to broaden his palette. Therefore, we send him to venture to a feast under the sign of Dante at 14 rue Paradis, in the 10th arrondissement of Paris, where he will get acquainted with the cuisine of Rebecca Beaufour. This young 28-year-old chef studied economics, choosing to work with Alain Passard in l’Arpège, where she will be introduced to the cuisine in which she will make her profession. She took lessons at the Ferrandi school, did an internship at Passard, then at the Ritz, at the Espadona with Nicolas Sale, before the Grand Véfour with Guy Martin, before the Senate, where she spoke with three finance ministers, including Bocuse. d’Or Fabrice Devigne, future chef of the President of the Republic. She learns rigor, modesty, the product, its seasonality. Now she occupies the former 14 Paradis, formerly called Paradis, on the street of the same name, which she dedicated to the Italian author Ada, and which she made a charming table, modern, full of energy, offering a small lunch menu for 28 euros, but also a more expensive menu with beautiful plates to share. awhite sparagus with trout caviar and egg mimosa, sea bream ceviche with tiger leche, octopus and piquillo, or even pork bao with a whole hake in a salt and thyme crust show what good wood it is made of when heated. This is a real talent in the making.

Marseille played by Denis Martin in Sète

Eric Martin © GP

Marseilles? You knew this Art Deco table, located near the Quai de Sète, to which Fabien Fage gave his star. His second, Denis Martin, 33, a native of Avignon, worked with him for four years, especially in the Charial-Beaumaniere group, and also worked at the Hôtel d’Europe and then for Daniel Boulle at the Ritz Hotel. -Carlton from Montreal and Michel Kaiser at Alexandre in Garon near Nîmes quickly replaced it with alacrity, offering lively, creative, sunny good quality cuisine, equally starred, carrying the high colors of Seth and Grand. Noon. His program includes the ideas of the sea and the seasons, celebrating the glory of shells and the Mediterranean., like a branded mullet or monkfish from an anthology. As a bonus, the dynamic Eric oversees a multi-table stall at the legendary Sète market, where he talks about local delicacies daily. The name of the establishment that is open every lunch: Marseille-aux-Alles.

Valerie Diosche in Narbonne

Valerie Diosche in the Mediterranean Sea © GP

Do you remember Valera Diosche? This fearless Vendée, conquered by the love of Alsace, remained for fifteen years under the rule of Antoine Westermann in Bürechizel, after studies – hold on tight – with Guy Savoy in Paris, Bernard Loiseau in Saulieu, Le Cerff in Marlenheim, not missing the Negresco in the time of Jacques Maximin, and then maestro Dominique le Stanca, was a Krutenau artist in Strasbourg, united in the virtues of good value for money, establishing himself as the champion of the sub-€20 menu genre with Pont aux Chats. For six years he disappeared from our radar screens and became the head chef of the Carl O’Hanlon restaurant at Château-les-Carras in Languedoc. He has now become the signature chef of an upmarket gourmet residence at Château Capitul in Narbonne, set up by the same Irish investor. The table (“Mediterranean”) bears his name in the subtitle, the menu his own, even though he benefits from the very Occitan coaching of Lionel Giraud, two-star Narbonne chef at Table de Saint-Crescent. The score, which he performs with two chords in the kitchen for about twenty covers, testifies to impeccable rigor and precision. In short, we feel that the star, which is still missing in its arsenal, is very close.

Maury Sacco replaces Jean Imbert at Saint-Tropez

Maury Sacco in Louis Vuitton © LV

One “best cook” hunts another. In Saint-Tropez, on the mythical Place des Lys, Maury Sacco takes the place of Jean Imbert’s “To Share” at the White 1921 hotel, owned by the LVMH group under the Cheval Blanc brand. Its concept, sponsored by Louis Vuitton, one of the group’s luxury brands: mainly local cuisine, very vegetal, mixed with the spirit of travel, with local products and spices from other places. With variations during lunchekiben, the legendary food tray from Japanese stations and trains, as well as taiyaki, dorayaki, grilled meats, and kakigori, other fine and sophisticated Japanese dishes. Place name: Mori Sacco in Louis Vuitton. Opening: 17 June.

Regis Campana at the Teatro Eduardo VII

Regis Campana and cacio e pepe © GP

Regis Campana? We met this gentleman restaurateur, who was the son-in-law of the late Rocco Anfuso, at Veramente in the 7th arrondissement of Paris, where he hosted the finest people of the capital in a boudoir trattoria furnished for quality Italian feasts. Here he became host and manager of a successful table under the name Lazzi at the Teatro Eduardo VII, where Juan Arbelaes had recently worked with Benjamin Pato’s Moma group under the name Froufrou. The place on the terrace with colonnades and tables facing the closed area has a magical side. With a little imagination, you might think that you are in Rome between the Trevi Fountain and Via Veneto and see the splendor of Federico Fellini’s Dolce Vita style recreated there. The table setting is neat, the wine list is rich, the pasta is homemade, the quality products and the (Italian) dishes show charm and precision. The poivrade artichokes with parmesan are highly recommended and the spaghetti casio and pepe, made to measure on a table pedestal, with pecorino romano and pepper appear in top in its own way, not only in Paris, but also in Rome … Let’s say!

Liliane Grimaud in Noirieux

Liliane Grimaud in Noirieux © DR

Dark? A few steps from Angers, on the edge of the Loire, this quiet 17th century manor house with outbuildings, tuff stone, slate roofs, a nine-hectare park, a terrace overlooking the green, offers tranquility, softness, rest associated with Relais & Châteaux, long celebrated by Anja and Gérard Kom, long time chatelains and leading hoteliers, and then supported by Marco Garfagnini, who has since joined the Airelles de Courchevel group in Saint-Tropez. The house’s new chef is a local from the scene: Lilian Grimaud, a native of Douai-la-Fontaine who was once a star in the Cholet, Passe Simple, before becoming an itinerant consulting chef. Thus, he returns to the Angevin region with the desire to restore the exquisite splendor of this noble residence.

Farewell to Jacqueline Lorraine

Jacqueline Lorraine with Catherine and Michel in 2011 on the Left Bank © GP

She was our Burgundy aunt, our suburban godmother. ” I was born in the Faubourg Saint-Denis / And remained a real boy from Parisshe sang this refrain from Mistinguette at the top of her voice, laughing, remembering her Parisian and popular origins. Born in April 1936, a refugee during the war with her parents in Joigny (Yonne), she fell in love at the age of 18 with her chef husband, whom she would push to three stars in the legendary Côte Saint-Jacques created by the latter’s parents. Jacqueline Lauren was not only Michel’s wife for about 65 years and the mother of Jean-Michel, 1959 blue (his favorite color) and the famous tunnel under the road leading the restaurant to the river. She was also, of course, an eminent sommelier and a prominent figure in the world of wine in Burgundy, a distinguished taster whose husband or friends such as Bernard Loizeau, who introduced her to us in 1981, highly appreciated ” exceptional palace“. Pommard Clos of Citeaux by Jean Monnier, Volnay by Lafarge, de Montille or Potel, Chablis by Raveneau, Dauvissat or Adhémar Boudin (as “dead man”, in GAEC Chantemerle in Chapelle Vaupelteigne, which she contributed so much to make famous) wooed her honest and accurate comments, giving her interlocutors moments of intense pleasure. She will join Michel less than a year after the latter’s death, in July 2021, as a final act of allegiance. Dear Jacqueline, you will forever remain in our hearts. We raise our glasses thinking of you. Condolences to Jean-Michel and Catherine who continue your work of warm hospitality.

Bernard Bach in Villemur-sur-Tarn

Bernard Bach and the young Garrigue team © DR

He “betrays” the heroes for the tarns! Bernard Bach, who entrusted the stoves of his two-star house in Pujodran to his nephew and second William Candelon, does not retire. He has just been hired as Consulting Chef at l’Alto, the gastronomic restaurant Château de la Garrigue in Villemur-sur-Tarn, where he became a gourmet “coach” to a young team at work. Target? Get a star very quickly with your student Murad Wabdeslam and reimagine dishes in the spirit of the great Southwest, such as duck foie gras cooked in spice flavors with honey, pears and pine nuts, or even Labage’s farmhouse guinea fowl for two courses with caramelized kromemskis endive and walnut juice. To be continued…

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