Conditions: business Paris settles on the terrace

For many years he was the totem of business Paris. Long owned by billionaire Jimmy Goldsmith and later by his right-hand banker Gilberte Beau, Laurent, with its splendid terrace on Avenue Marigny, set back from the Champs Elysées, was a gathering place for the wealthy and powerful. Martin Bouygues and Alain Dinin (Nexity) have napkin rings. Vincent Bollore celebrated there his new conquests … in business. Laurent Dassault dined diligently there, at least until the sommelier brought the finest Château Dassault wines to his cellar. Until recently, Henri de Castries (ex-Axa) and Édouard Philippe (former prime minister) conversed under the famous chestnut tree that shaded the cutlery outside. The advisers of the microcosm – the banker Mathieu Pigas, the lawyer Antoine Gosse-Grainville, the lobbyist Paul Buri, the decorator François-Joseph Graf… – always have a free table there, even if Laurent has lost a whole lot of his amazing since the pandemic.

The concession of the city of Paris, like its twin across the avenue, Ledoyen, which was completely transformed by chef Yannick Alléno, Laurent began a new life on February 10th. That day, to everyone’s surprise, the Paris Council did not renew its concession to the Partush group that had ruled it for eighteen years. “I must say that nothing has changed since then,” the regular notes. “Even the waiters’ suit is outdated…” The only innovation: the size of the famous delicacies ringing the hour of dessert – at the crossroads of palm trees and kouignamann – was reduced by half. Compliance with the line and the fight against cholesterol oblige …

And so, by offering a complete overhaul of the establishment – an investment of 8 million euros, four times the amount requested by the mayor’s office – the new tandem will rule the fortunes of Parisian elite dining for the next twelve years. . Far from the Partouche project, the main originality of which was to make the ground floor a playroom. sacrilege…

Perrush, on the Grands Boulevards (9th Paris). One of the most gorgeous panoramas of the capital.

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